Guatemala 2018

Sunday18November

Early morning wake-up with a 1-hour drive to reach the entrance of Tikal where we need to buy tickets to enter the protected area. Then, to reach the official parking, you have to drive slowly, not exceeding an average speed of 45 km/h! The departure time is noted on the ticket which is checked upon arrival!   Our average is perfect and we escape the fine... A small breakfast on site and we are ready to explore 2600 years of history over 16 km² of surface. In short, a "small" spatio-temporal visit to the Mayan world for our next 6 hours.

From the toucan family, this collared aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus) accompanies us during breakfast.

The trails cross the completely wooded area. But some have managed to make space around their small vital area... This large Kapok tree or Ceiba (Ceiba pentandra) easily surpasses its congeners. It must be said that it is also the sacred tree of the Mayans.

The ceiba was a very sacred tree for the Mayans during the Classic period (300-900). It symbolized the axis of the world, the axis mundi. © Wikipedia

Animals are rather discreet but some rustling noises and a good visual search sometimes allow to spot some birds. In its branches hides a plain chachalaca (Penelope purpurascens).

We cross the park directly from East to West to then return to the parking lot, passing from temple to temple. We therefore start with Temple IV, located completely to the left on the map. This temple is not so old (everything is relative) as it dates from the 8th century AD. It is from up there that we have one of the most beautiful views of the entire city.

Just like at El Mirador, the pyramids rise above the canopy horizon, thus clearing the view of a superb ocean of greenery. Temple IV is 65 meters high and is one of the largest in the Mayan world.

In the distance, three pyramids also emerge, the two main ones of the central square as well as Temple III on the right.

To the left, Temples I and II facing each other on the central square. To the right, Temple III or Gran Sacerdote.

Once up there, fences prevent entry into the sacred rooms which today seem very empty...

The platform of the "Lost World" pyramid where we will go later.

Zoom on pyramids I and II of the central plaza.

Our luck was to be only the three of us at the summit, which must not be so frequent... Nothing like it to project ourselves centuries back and find ourselves as if by magic alongside the priests authorized to come here to this sanctuary...

Descent by the wooden staircase. Installed almost everywhere, these staircases avoid climbing the original stone steps which are often too damaged and dangerous for small tourists... These staircases are also an opportunity to pass close to some birds a little less shy than others, like this beautiful Lesson's motmot (Momotus lessonii)...

We continue our loop which passes over more or less impressive vestiges, like this Complex N and its twin pyramids.

Stelae and circular altars are adorned with engravings representing King Ah Cacao, one of the rulers who governed the city in the 8th century AD.

The city is in the middle of the jungle and if its progression were not stopped, the site would undoubtedly very quickly resemble El Mirador...

The Talud-Tablero is an architectural style where small platforms (tablero) alternate, protruding along the pyramid (talud) on each side of the staircase.

Details of the limestone steps.

Details of the pyramid walls.

The pyramid of the "Lost World" (inspired by Conan Doyle's book, itself inspired by Spielberg's film Jurassic Park) served, from its 32-meter height, as a platform for observing the stars...

Here again, ascending by the stone steps is forbidden. One goes up there by the wooden staircase.

From up there, a beautiful clear view of the site, with Temple IV, where we were earlier, as the focal point this time.

To the left, Temple III. To the right, the Great Plaza with Temples II and I. From here, one can also better see the kapok trees (Ceiba pentandra), the sacred tree of the Mayans, and also the national tree of Guatemala. The rust-colored clumps are epiphytic plants, as they grow off the ground using the tree as support. And the long, light filaments are mosses often called "old man's beard" (Tillandsia usneoides).

Temples III and I.

Zoom on Temple IV. Finally, we think we're at the top, but there's still a lot of stone above our heads!

Panorama of the Talud-Tablero and Temple IV.

Detail of epiphytic plants clinging to the kapok trees.

Contemporary altars have been installed for Mayan ceremonies still practiced today.

Small temples before arriving at the Plaza of the Seven Temples.

The interior of a small hut.

The plaza looks more like a small wooded park.

One of the seven temples.

On the steps of the largest of the seven temples, facing what remains of a stela and an altar.

From the terrace, at the back of the seven temples.

On the back of the temples, bas-reliefs that have resisted the passage of centuries as best they could.

Tikal is also an opportunity to encounter groups of tourists of small mammals that will barely notice you, but that you, for sure, will notice with their not-so-discreet periscope-shaped tails... 

"Naturally curious, the coati approaches houses and does not hesitate to visit trash cans. Friendly, it can be approached, even touched. However, its boldness often leads to it being chased away by residents. It can be easily domesticated, and it has been experimentally verified that it is very intelligent." © Wikipedia

In addition to its caudal periscope, its long nose remains almost permanently glued to the ground, searching for appetizing smells like a metal detector.

Its non-retractable claws make it an excellent tree climber.

The delicacies sought here are large white larvae that seem to abound in the soil. As soon as the prey is detected underground thanks to its olfactory radar, the coati plunges its snout into the soil, excavating the earth to quickly find its quickly devoured meal...

"Female coatis live in groups all year round, while male coatis are solitary. The entire species meets every six months for reproduction. The coati then emits long, strident cries to attract its future partner." © Wikipedia

Here we are now in the acropolis in front of Temple V with its wide and imposing steps leading to the tiny entrance.

Again, a recent altar has been made available for sacred rituals.

The temple was built in the 7th century and is 57 meters high.

A yellow-spectacled trogon (Trogon caligatus) takes a moment to pose for my camera.  

We are approaching the Great Plaza (Gran Plaza), the most famous in Tikal with its two large pyramids facing each other. Here is the back of Temple II, which is climbed from the rear with the wooden staircase.

Only the third level is accessible and secured. Alas, some parts of the walls have been damaged by graffiti...

The temple originally measured 42 meters, but the stones at the summit did not withstand the wear of time and caused the edifice to lose 4 meters.

Temple II is aptly named the Temple of the Masks, in reference to the bas-reliefs visible above our heads.

It is undoubtedly from this Temple II that one can enjoy the most photogenic views of the park. Indeed, facing us stands the great Jaguar Pyramid (Temple I), and between us, the green Great Plaza.  

To the left, the North Acropolis, which was expanded with a new temple for each new burial of a Mayan ruler.

Here we are now on the Great Plaza.

Facing the majestic Temple of the Great Jaguar, the Temple of the Masks is more squat.

Temple I is believed to have been built to receive, one might even say cover, the remains of Ah Cacao (whose real name was Jasaw Chan K'Awil), who died in 734. His skeleton was found underground beneath the pyramid.

Between the two temples, an "altar" for contemporary ceremonies.

The North Acropolis and its entanglement of small and large temples.

The tourists are mostly Guatemalan and don't leave without their souvenir photo!  

At the summit, under a substantial roof, the sacred hall is composed of three rooms.

The ascent of the very steep and dilapidated staircase has been forbidden due to too frequent tourist falls...

A geodesic marker to which the exact longitudes and latitudes of its position are attached.

A stele whose bas-reliefs are so intricate that it is difficult to recognize the drawings...

Finally, stone steps to climb!  

From the top of the Acropolis, the two temples challenge each other as much as they complement each other!

Were the Mayans giants? Judging by the size of their descendants, I would say rather not... The grandeur of the steps must undoubtedly have been disproportionate to the deceased sovereigns who reigned over the city of Tikal...

On the other side of the North Acropolis, the Central Acropolis where the perspective on the great square will take on another face.

At the foot of Temple I, there is a ball game court, recognizable by its opposing stands. Players had to pass a rubber ball of varying size (a sacred material among the Mayans). They could use their knees, elbows, hips, or buttocks for this, avoiding touching it with their hands or feet. The ball weighed up to more than 3 kg, hence the danger of using hands and feet. Players also wore protective gear to mitigate the violence of blows and especially to protect themselves when throwing themselves to the ground to catch a ball: elbow pads, knee pads, yokes (leather belts). Like in volleyball, the goal was to return the ball to the opposing side without it touching the ground." © Wikipedia

The Great Plaza seen from the Central Acropolis.

In the Central Acropolis, among other things, the houses of the nobles were found.

Argh, it would have been a shame not to cross paths with him again! And this time, he's not hidden behind his mom, but still has his mischievous eye! This big Geoffroy's spider monkey baby (Ateles geoffroyi) navigates from tree to tree, well-attached to his mother's back.  

This imposing temple bears the name of the scene visible inside, showing a priest dressed in a jaguar skin...

Alas, no room is visitable.   It's hard to realize the grandeur of the temples placed so far up on the pyramids.

View from the back of Temple III.

And one last one for the road: Temple 5d 77!  

Before leaving the site, a quick look at the ants that never stop working while tourists wander from pyramid to pyramid... These are weaver ants (Oecophylla smaragdina) which, as their name suggests, weave leaves together with the silk thread produced by their larvae...   Tomorrow, we hit the road again to reach the mouth of the Rio Dulce in the city of Livingston, the Caribbean part of Guatemala!