Guatemala 2018

Monday19November

After almost 4 hours of driving from El Remate, here we are in Rio Dulce, the starting point for lanchas to the city of Livingston.

After lunch at the restaurant, we embark on a lancha, the only possible means of transport to reach Livingston on the Atlantic coast.

The crossing follows the Rio Dulce river which flows through Lake Golfete Dulce.

Short stop and quick swim in the warm waters of Agua Caliente flowing into the river.

2 hours after our departure from Rio Dulce, we arrive in Livingston.

We will spend two nights at the African Place hotel.

A short evening stroll. Livingston takes us far from other regions of Guatemala with their Mayan history and traditions. Here, we are clearly in the Caribbean. The setting, the people, the atmosphere live to the rhythm of the Garifunas, these descendants of black slaves brought from Africa to the Antilles in the 18th century.

Great egrets (Ardea alba) are dipping in the Caribbean Sea or more precisely in Amatique Bay.

On the tiny islet facing us, the statue of Livingston's patron saint: Saint Joseph of Nazareth.

The closer we get to the main streets, the more the Caribbean atmosphere is felt.

The small port where we arrived.

Sunset over the sea while we are on the East coast... Amazing!  

Our shower with agua caliente (hot water)!... We are always promised hot water and rarely is it true... This hot water system is common in South America but always just as unsettling... 

Tuesday20November

If we are indeed in the Caribbean, it is first and foremost in Guatemala that we are. And if we have any doubt on the matter, the morning frijoles immediately remind us of it!  

For this day, we plan a short hike to the Tiger's Cave. The journey begins with a short boat trip that takes us to the banks of the Tatin River where a young guide from the Maya Q'eqchi' community welcomes us. The Q'eqchi' or Kekchi form the 2nd largest Mayan community in the country. In Livingston, the "Ak' Tenamit" association has enabled the construction of a village to welcome them since their flight during various wars.

We cross the jungle, just as humid as the one we traversed during our trek to the Mirador...

Here we are in front of the Tiger's Cave, whose name dates back to the time when a tiger, but undoubtedly a jaguar, lived here.

Our guide passes the torch to Neri who will accompany us for the rest of the hike. Three French women and their guide join us, and we all enter the cavity, plunging into the darkness where a rumble betrays the presence of an underground river... 

The path abruptly stops at the edge of a cement platform. Here we are at the position where the sound of the river is strongest, but still, the river is not visible... And for good reason, it is located 5 or 6 meters below, and we can only vaguely make it out in the glow of our headlamps...  

The purpose of all this is simple: to throw oneself headfirst from the platform into the river, several meters into the darkness, trusting Neri completely... But there is a less radical option 2, allowing descent to the water along a ladder. I chose option number 2, much more reasonable given the obscure unknown facing us... It was then that Neri launched himself, disappearing into the darkness, and a second later, a splash reached us... It didn't take much less to convince me, and I changed my mind, returning to option 1, then launched myself into the void...   Down below, the river isn't very powerful, and a small ledge allows for quick exit from the water. The rest was nothing magical, as the rains had swollen the river, making the path we were supposed to take along the watercourse impassable..

The visit was therefore short; all that remained was to climb back up the ladder and return to the exit by the same path.

We continue our little exploration with Neri, passing through paths that are still just as muddy.

We arrive at the home of some locals who prepare something to satisfy our hunger.

Shhh, here we sleep! Siesta is sacred everywhere and at any age!

Our hearty meal.

The rest of the journey will end in a van full of logs.

The driver doesn't have complete confidence in his vehicle, and tells us he's not sure he'll get us to our destination...  

The vehicle is doing not so bad, and even better, as it picks up not-so-clandestine passengers along the way... 

For dinner, I chose the specialty of all Latin America: ceviche, a vinegary marinade that cooks the food it contains, shrimp in my case. On the right, it's not the rest of my meal but simply a large crab visiting our hotel...  

Wednesday21November

Second day in Livingston, a tuk-tuk takes us to the mouth of the Quehueche River, the starting point for the beaches leading to the waterfalls of Los Siete Altares (the seven altars).

The tuk-tuk drops us off at this suspension bridge. We now have 2.5 km of walking along the sea to reach the site entrance.

On paper, the seven waterfalls are heavenly. Blue waters under a blue sky... Well, for today, it will certainly be a gray sky and probably waters of the same color... Intermittent rain accompanies our walk facing a rough sea.

Pretty huts at the end of pontoons adorn the path.

It is also on these beaches that we see the ravages of plastic that washes ashore here. Let's keep in mind that this waste was not thrown directly into the sea or ocean, but rather thrown in our cities or in our countryside! Plastic is thrown on the ground, then the wind or rain carries it to the river which flows into the main river which ends its course in the sea... Something to think about... 

The waters are rising and we have to cross the baby rivers that have just appeared.

Access to the waterfalls is through a house where we can leave our belongings and 20 quetzals to enter the site. The 7 altars or waterfalls are sacred. A virgin is said to have appeared here. The old couple living in the house seems to have occupied this post for decades, judging by the photo displayed among the offerings and other shells smoking with incense...

As expected, the river is far from paradisiacal and recent rains have stirred its bed, removing its blue color...

We arrive at the last waterfall where it is possible to swim.

It's even possible to go behind the wall of water!

After 30 minutes of splashing around, we return to the starting point. Some waterfalls are crossed with the help of a rope.

And we're off to the beaches again, but in the other direction!

A snowy egret (Egretta thula).

Muscovy ducks (Cairina moschata).

Back to the center of Livingston for lunch.

Some walls with "perhaps" ephemeral paintings.

Departure time has arrived. A great egret (Ardea alba) scans the horizon so as not to miss the next arrival of the lancha returning to Dolce Gusto.

Here we are in the lancha! In Dolce Gusto, we will be able to pick up our car that we had left two days ago in a supervised parking lot, and resume the road to our next stop located 90 minutes away: Quiriguá.

We will stay only one night in Quiriguá at the small "Royal" hotel.

Despite its name, the hotel is very simple, and the owner prepares a small meal for us to end the evening. Tomorrow, the visit to the archaeological site of Quiriguá awaits us.