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Singapore 2024

Botanic Gardens and Kampong Glam


So it is after three weeks in Malaysia that we arrive, in the rain  , at Changi airport in Singapore. We take a VTC to reach the Ibis hotel which will be our residence for the next six days... Low-cost luxury accommodation in Malaysia will be missed...  

Air Asia plane wing at Changi Airport, Tanah Merah sector.Facade of Ibis Budget Crystal hotel in Geylang district.

Dinner just next door, at Get Some @ Guillemard.

Lemongrass dish at Geylang restaurant.

One room, one window, two beds and a shower room. Fortunately, we will manage to open the (condemned) window so that everything breathes!  

Ibis Budget Crystal hotel room in Geylang district.Bathroom at Ibis Budget Singapore Crystal, Geylang district.

Day 1 of our Singaporean stay. The rain has swapped its water for rays of Sunshine!  

View from the room of Ibis Budget Singapore Crystal hotel, Geylang.

We are in the Geylang district. Here, low and old dwellings face large modern residential complexes.

View of the Geylang district rooftops from the Ibis Budget Crystal hotel.

The Mountbatten station that we will constantly frequent.

Mountbatten station platform, Circle Line, in Geylang district.

Botanic gardens

Let's start with a little greenery. The Singapore Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a historic scientific institution. It played a key role in the development of rubber tree (Hevea brasiliensis) cultivation, the main rubber tree.

Landscape view of Tanglin Botanic Gardens.
Pond and palm trees in the Tanglin Foliage Garden.Walkway in the Tanglin Botanic Gardens.

The Red-eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans), recognizable by its red stripe on the temples, is an invasive exotic species. It competes with local turtle species in Singapore's water bodies...  

Bridge and pond in Tanglin Foliage Garden, view of a NUS building.Red-eared slider turtle in the Tanglin Foliage Pond.

At the base of the Arenga palm (Arenga undulatifolia), a tangle of aerial roots forms a plant skirt. This structure, favored by ambient humidity, firmly anchors the tree in the ground and optimizes nutrient absorption at the surface.  

Dense foliage of the Tanglin Foliage Garden.Alexandra Palm (Archontophoenix alexandrae) in the Tanglin Botanic Gardens.
Person on a bench near a pond, Tanglin Foliage Garden.

The smooth-coated otter (Lutrogale perspicillata) is a regular in the park. It repopulates the waterways of Singapore, after having been considered a locally extinct species. Its successful return testifies to the improvement of urban water quality.

Smooth-coated otter in the Tanglin Foliage Garden.Smooth-coated otter in the Tanglin Foliage Garden.
Smooth-coated otter at Tanglin Garden Pond.Smooth-coated otter (Lutrogale perspicillata) at Tanglin Botanic Gardens.

The smooth-coated otter lives in family groups. Its daily life is punctuated by searching for food in the water and periods of rest and grooming on the banks.

Smooth-coated otter in the Tanglin Botanic Garden.
Bridge, body of water, and tropical vegetation of the Tanglin Botanic Gardens.

Giant grasses like bamboos are in XXL size. In the gloom of the undergrowth, it is the fan-shaped leaves of the Licuala grandis palm that unfold.

Golden bamboo in the Tanglin Botanic Gardens.Licuala grandis at Tanglin Botanic Garden.
Elevated path in the Tanglin Botanic Gardens.Tree canopy of Tanglin Botanic Gardens, with filtering sunlight.

The Asian water monitor (Varanus salvator) is one of the largest lizards in the world, frequently observed in Singapore parks.

Asian water monitor in the Tanglin Garden Pond.

For now, he searches the forest litter in search of large worms.

Malayan monitor lizard at the edge of the pond, Tanglin Foliage Garden.Asian water monitor (*Varanus salvator*) in Tanglin Garden.Malayan monitor lizard in the Tanglin Botanic Gardens.
Asian water monitor in the Tanglin Foliage Garden.Malayan monitor lizard, Tanglin district.Varanus salvator in Tanglin Garden.

Here is another one looking for some food on the ground: the red junglefowl (Gallus gallus), wild ancestor of all domestic chickens.

Strangler fig (Ficus benghalensis) in the Tanglin Healing Garden.Red Junglefowl in the Healing Garden.

The Pandanus is characterized by its important system of stilt roots. These roots start from the trunk to anchor solidly in the ground, ensuring the stability of the tree. This structure is an adaptation to the loose soils of tropical environments, such as coastlines or swampy areas.

Pandanus amaryllifolius at Tanglin Healing Garden.Pandanus and waterfall in the Tanglin Healing Garden.
Red sealing wax palms (Cyrtostachys renda) in the Tanglin Botanic Gardens.
Palm trees in the Tanglin Rainforest.
Strangler fig in the Tanglin Rainforest.Tanglin Rainforest boardwalk.Path of the Tanglin Rainforest boardwalk, with its pond.

A quiver in the neighboring tree catches the eye of my lens... It's a hyperactive plantain squirrel (Callosciurus notatus).  

Plantain squirrel in the Tanglin Rainforest.Plantain squirrel (Callosciurus notatus) in Tanglin Forest.
Tanglin Camwood Park pond with Heliconia flowers.

Heliconias.

Heliconia psittacorum flower in the Tanglin area.Heliconia and insect in Tanglin Camwood Park.Heliconia psittacorum in Tanglin Camwood Park.Heliconia psittacorum in Tanglin Camwood Park.
Camwood Pond in Tanglin.

Giant Amazon water lilies (Victoria amazonica) spread their large floating trays on the "Symphony" basin.

Victoria water lilies in Tanglin Camwood Park.

Lotus and water lily belong to different families. The leaves of the lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) rise above the water, while those of the water lily (genus Nymphaea), as here, float on the surface.

Blue water lily (Nymphaea nouchali) in Tanglin Camwood Park.Leaf with water droplets at Tanglin Botanic Gardens.Water lily from Tanglin Botanic Gardens.
Red dragonfly on a water lily bud at Tanglin Orchid Garden.

The Shaw Foundation stage, a space dedicated to open-air concerts.

Shaw Foundation Symphony Stage and water lily pond, Tanglin Core.
Water lily pond and visitors at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.

Its small frontal crest and yellow iris make it easy to identify, the Javan myna (Acridotheres javanicus). The name 'Sad Martin' (Martin triste in French) is confusing. Its name comes from the Latin tristis meaning 'dark' in reference to its plumage.

Javan myna in Tanglin Orchid Garden.

We now enter the orchid garden where it is in all its forms.  

Arachnis Maggie Oei orchid at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Magnolia grandiflora flower at Tanglin Orchid Garden.Dendrobium orchid at Tanglin Orchid Garden.

After flowering, the heliconia reveals its fruits grouped in its bracts.

Fruits of Heliconia psittacorum at Tanglin Orchid Garden.Heliconia psittacorum at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.

Crepe ginger (Cheilocostus speciosus). Each flower lives only for a day, but the inflorescence produces several successively over a long period.

Crepe Ginger (Costus speciosus) in Tanglin Orchid Garden.Costus speciosus flower at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.

Middle photo: the fruit of Tabernaemontana dichotoma known as Eve's apple. A Sri Lankan legend tells that it was this fruit, and not that of the apple tree, that was the forbidden fruit... Its singular shape is due to its two follicles, parts of the fruit that often develop asymmetrically. Despite its attractive color, it is toxic and unfit for consumption.

Frangipani tree in Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Annatto fruit (Bixa orellana) at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Cattleya orchid flower in Tanglin National Orchid Garden.
Ferns and tropical flora at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Leaf from Tanglin National Orchid Garden.

The Lady's Slipper (left photo) owes its name to its slipper-shaped labellum, which is actually a pollination trap.

Paphiopedilum orchid (Lady's Slipper) at Tanglin Orchid Garden.Droplets on purple orchid from Tanglin National Orchid Garden.

Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis).

White Phalaenopsis orchids at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Phalaenopsis orchids at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.
Pink Phalaenopsis orchid in Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Phalaenopsis orchid at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.

These orchids, Dendrobium, are distinguished by their fleshy stems, called pseudobulbs. These structures store water and nutrients, allowing the plant to survive climatic variations.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.
Three Paphiopedilum Maudiae orchids at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Lady's Slipper orchid at Tanglin Orchid Garden.

Pitcher plants, carnivorous plants native to North America. Insects, attracted by the nectar, slide inside and are digested by an enzymatic liquid.

Sarracenia, carnivorous plants, at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Sarracenia in Tanglin National Orchid Garden.
Cattleya orchid at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.
Greenhouse of Tanglin National Orchid Garden.
Nepenthes gracilis plants at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Nepenthes gracilis plants at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.
Leaf of Livistona chinensis palm at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Fern at the National Orchid Garden.Infrutescence of Freycinetia multiflora at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Leaf of Livistona chinensis at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.

Watering the plants, but in a few moments it is the clouds that will water us in a great downpour...  

Licuala grandis fan palm at Tanglin Orchid Garden.Orchids at Tanglin National Orchid Garden.Heliconia flower in Tanglin National Orchid Garden.

During the 45 minutes of rain, we are blocked in the shop facing this large clock... It was offered in 1981 by the Seiko company for the 125th anniversary of the park.

Botanic garden clock, Tanglin entrance.Clock at Tanglin Botanic Gardens.Heliconia flower in Tanglin Orchid Garden.

After so many vegetables, I fall back on a hamburger at the restaurant Harry's Dempsey Hill.

Burger, fries and coleslaw at Harry's restaurant in Dempsey Hill.

We return to the center of Singapore. Here we are at the foot of Parkview Square, nicknamed the "Gotham Building". Example of Art Deco architecture, it was nevertheless built in 2002.

Parkview Square, Art Deco building, and Golden Crane statue.

Parkview square

In front of the entrance, a golden crane symbolizes longevity and good fortune, while the generous volumes of the Dressed Woman are staged by the Colombian Fernando Botero.

Golden crane statue at Parkview Square.Sculpture 'Dressed Woman' by Fernando Botero at Parkview Square.

The esplanade of Parkview Square also hosts the red ochre silhouettes of Italian artist Roberto Barni. Some around a cage...

Sculptures by Roberto Barni, The Gate of Hope, at Parkview Square.Statue by Roberto Barni at Parkview Square.

Others in a human column...  

Statue The Thinkers by Roberto Barni at Parkview Square.Sculpture 'Human Column' by Roberto Barni, at Parkview Square.

The Art Deco style, the guiding line of Parkview Square.  

Art Deco bas-relief on the Odeon Towers.Atlantes adorning the facade of the Raffles Hotel.Sculpture by Ng Eng Teng, 'The Joy of Effort', at Bugis Junction.

Kampong Glam

Let's leave the art deco of the 20s for the streets of the historic district of Kampong Glam, one of the oldest urban districts of Singapore, historically devoted to the Malay and Arab communities.

Colorful shophouses on Haji Lane street.Haji Lane shopping street with its traditional shophouses, Rochor district.Street scene in Haji Lane, Rochor district, with its colorful awnings.

The narrow alley "Haji Lane", formerly lined with 'shophouses' welcoming Muslim pilgrims, is today the epicenter of independent fashion, housing young local designers and specialized boutiques. The facades of buildings serve as canvas for street artists.

Colorful sculptures in Haji Lane, Rochor district.Mural of musicians on the facade of Blu Jaz Cafe in Bugis.
Street scene with restaurants and murals on Arab Street.Maya-Aztec mural on Haji Lane, Rochor district.Graffiti on Haji Lane street, Rochor district.
Haji Lane street in the Rochor district.

"Shophouses" constitute an architectural heritage of the colonial era. These terraced and narrow buildings were designed for dual use: a shop on the ground floor and a private residence upstairs.

Colorful streets of Haji Lane, Rochor district.Murals in the Kampong Gelam district, with the Pustaka Haji Muhammad Said.
Colorful shophouses of Haji Lane, Rochor district.

On the wall of a shophouse at 92 Arab Street, artist Yip Yew Chong painted a scene from the life of a Malay family in the 60s.

Mural by Yip Yew Chong, domestic life scene on Arab Street.Mural by Yip Yew Chong, scene of children at the window and traditional interior, Arab Street.
Mural of stilt houses and boats in the Kampong Glam district.Street scene in the Rochor district, with murals illustrating the heritage of Kampong Glam and the name Masjid Sultan on a building.

Trompe-l'oeil or reality? The shophouse window fits perfectly into the painting of the street vendor of satay skewers... Not sure if the customer knows that she thus becomes part of Yip Yew Chong's work.   On another fresco by the same artist, Javanese shadow theater is highlighted.

Mural by Yip Yew Chong on Muscat Street, local life scene with a satay vendor and a shop interior.Mural by Yip Yew Chong: 'Pondok Jawa' shadow puppet scene on Muscat Street, Rochor.

The Sultan Mosque (Masjid Sultan) is a national monument in the heart of the Kampong Glam district. Its particularity is the black line that goes around the golden dome... To involve as many people as possible in the reconstruction of the mosque in 1932, the base of the dome was belted with glass bottle bottoms provided by the faithful.  

Sultan Mosque and its golden dome, Rochor district.Sultan Mosque in the Rochor district.
Masjid Sultan and its golden dome, Rochor district.Sultan Mosque in the Rochor district.Masjid Sultan, golden-domed mosque in the Rochor district.
Bussorah Street and Sultan Mosque, Kampong Glam district.Sultan Mosque of Kampong Glam.

The pedestrian street of Bussorah, a clever mix of colorful facades of shophouses, royal palms (Roystonea regia) and hotel building...

Shopping street in the Rochor district, near Masjid Sultan.
Terrace of Kampong Glam Cafe in the Kampung Glam district.

Return to the apartment passing over the banks of the Kallang basin lined with its coconut trees facing the Merdeka bridge.

View of the Kallang National Stadium from the river bank.

Behind the bridge stands the Singapore National Stadium, whose retractable roof constitutes one of the largest dome structures in the world.

Kallang Basin and the National Stadium.
Kallang Lake, Spirit of Kallang, Tanjong Rhu.Residential buildings along the Kallang Basin.
Merdeka Bridge and reflections of buildings in the Kallang Basin, Tanjong Rhu district.
View of Kallang Basin, Merdeka Bridge, and residential buildings with an MRT line.

In the distance, it's not Disneyland hotels that have sprung up, but the Tanjong Rhu residential complex, and its luxury condominiums with red tiles. Formerly a shipyard area, the sector has been completely redeveloped to become a popular district.

Kallang Waterside Condominiums residential complex by the water.

In the distance, we distinguish two icons of Singapore Bay: the Singapore Flyer, a 165-meter high observation wheel, and the Marina Bay Sands, a hotel recognizable by its boat-shaped terrace. We will be there in a few days!  

The Waterside residential buildings, in Tanjong Rhu.The Singapore Flyer and the Costa Rhu residential buildings in Kallang.The Singapore Flyer Ferris wheel and the Marina Bay Sands complex behind a bridge.

Evening dinner on the theme of skewers, at the restaurant Little Charcoal Stove.

Satay skewers in the Geylang district.Street food meat skewers from the Geylang district, grilled over charcoal.Skewers on a small charcoal brazier, Geylang district.





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