Nepal 2017

Tuesday31October

Here we are in front of one of the largest stupas on the planet. Built in the 15th century, the monument has spanned centuries until April 25, 2015, when during the 7.9 magnitude earthquake, it lost its harmika (the golden part). Fortunately, it was restored and put back in place just a year ago!   The site was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1979, like the 6 other remarkable sites in the region, grouped under the name Kathmandu Valley.

The traditional stupa is composed from top to bottom: the mandala with three platforms where we can walk around, representing the earth. Then comes the dome for water, the golden tower for fire, the crown for air, and finally the pinnacle for ether (the force that connects the other 4 elements).

On the 4 sides of the harmika, Buddha watches us! Oh yes, I didn't specify it, but if this morning we were in the heart of the Hindu religion, this afternoon we are immersed in Buddhism! These eyes, therefore, are those of Buddha, they symbolize Wisdom and Compassion. Above the two eyes, a point representing the third eye can be distinguished. It is through this eye that Buddha can communicate with humans via cosmic rays.     The sign between the two eyes, meanwhile, is the number "one" in Nepalese script, a symbol of unity.

All around the first platform, prayer wheels are available. It is traditional to walk around the stupa clockwise, and also to turn the wheels from right to left, with the right hand, the left hand being reserved for "impure" tasks.

The enclosure surrounding the stupa is made up of shops, but also guesthouses and small temples...

At the base of the dome, you can see small square niches. There are 108 of them! And each has its own Buddha! Or at least what's left of it...

This lady holds a "Mala" in her hands, the Buddhist rosary. And it also has 108 beads! This number 108 represents the 108 trials Buddha had to go through to reach enlightenment.

If you don't pay attention, you won't even notice her. This old lady, a Buddhist monk, has been immutably spending her days sitting in this position in this same spot for at least 5 years (if I believe the photos found on the internet)! Here, people can come to consult her and receive her advice and blessings. Impressive!  

The tour of the stupa passes through small temples with their own prayer wheels.

We also come across stupas of more modest sizes, and even more minuscule ones in cavities...

These thousands of fabric rectangles that connect the harmika to the ground amplify the Tibetan atmosphere of the place. These are "lungtas" or prayer flags.

"According to the Nyingma school, the meaning of the colors is as follows (in order, blue always being at the top, towards the sky):
blue: space (the celestial vault) (Akashpura)
white: air (or wind, clouds) (Vayapur)
red: fire (Agnipura)
green: water (Nagpura)
yellow (or orange): earth (Vasupara)"
© Wikipedia

Much more than the flags, it's their faces they want to immortalize... Oh yes, the selfie craze has found its followers in Nepal, I would even say I've never seen so many as in this country!  

Let's hope they put the beautiful eyes of Buddha in the background!  

Detail of the 13 levels that extend the harmika. They represent the 13 levels to reach enlightenment.

Huge jar-shaped censer. Offerings can be burned there.

To climb to the second platform, you have to pass between two elephants ridden by a horseman brandishing a sword and a horsewoman with an offering.

"Kinkinimalas", the name given to these rows of bells.

Following the bells, we arrive at this small temple where it is possible to turn a huge prayer wheel.

A second small temple also with its large prayer wheel. Direction of rotation: always from right to left! And no need for superhuman strength to turn it, the ball bearing is impeccable!  

The entrance to the small Guru Lhakhang monastery located in the outer crown. And of course, this monk is not taking a selfie! Although...    

Detail of the frescoes on the exterior walls of the temple.

A small staircase takes us to the terrace overlooking the stupa.

A deer listening to the teachings of Buddha (the wheel of Dharma).

An airplane taking off. Bodnath is only three kilometers from the end of the international airport runway.

The panoramic view of the Stupa from the balcony of the Guru Lhakhang temple.

The interior of the temple.

The "big bell"

In this place, meditation can also be canine...  

A neighborhood personality? A known priestess passing through? In any case, the people around her seemed to want to embrace her.  

We leave Boudhanath and dive back into modern civilization with its share of engines and electrical wires...  

Between dust and pollution, many wear masks.

After this first busy day, we meet Narayan in his office where he presents us with tomorrow's day, when we will begin our 15-day trek in the Annapurnas!

We end the day with dal bhat and momos