Japan 2019

Friday8November

This new day will be dedicated to the ancient city of Nara, located about thirty kilometers from our hotel, or about 90 minutes by train.

Here we are in Nara where the statue of the monk Gyōki welcomes us from atop his conical fountain... This Buddhist monk greatly contributed to modernizing the city in the 8th century while helping the poorest. He is considered a "saint" by the entire country.

We pass through the covered shopping street (a shōtengai) of Higashimuki.

Nara was the capital of Japan from 710 to 784. We will visit the remains of this period and those that followed. The site was added to the World Heritage list in 1998. It is the imposing five-story pagoda that stands out upon arrival at the site.

We are in the Kōfuku-ji Buddhist sanctuary. Photo on the right, the octagonal Nanendō pavilion, founded in 813 and rebuilt in 1789.

The bronze lantern from the 9th century.

On the right, the freshly rebuilt Golden Hall has only been open to the public since 2018.

The 5-story pagoda (gojū-no-tō) was last rebuilt in 1426... At 50 meters, it is the tallest in Japan.

The pagoda's spire with its rings is a sōrin. The wooden pagoda is 50 meters high. It is considered a National Treasure, like many other buildings on the site.

The large building at the foot of the five-story pagoda is the tō-kondō. It has been destroyed several times by fires. Its last reconstruction dates from 1415.

Nara is also inseparable from an inhabitant who has taken possession of the premises: the sika deer (Cervus nippon). While we encountered it in the wild on Hokkaido Island, here, it seems quite domesticated as it completely ignores the many tourists unless a piece of food seems to be sticking out of a backpack or pocket...

The many schoolchildren visiting do not only have the task of wandering through the sanctuary but also, for some, of formally questioning Western-looking tourists... To perfect their English, we therefore have the privilege of answering the questionnaire of these young and intimidated locals.

Boys on one side. Girls on the other.  

A small body of water named "mirror pond" enhances the alley leading to the great Nandaimon gate.

We arrive at the great Eastern temple, Tōdai-ji. First, we must pass through the Nandaimon gate, a remnant of the old enclosure wall.

The gate is protected by two Niō: Photo on the left: Agyō. Photo on the right: Ungyō.

"The Niō are two Buddhist deities, named Agyō and Ungyō in Japanese, guarding the entrance to temples. Agyō, depicted with an open mouth, symbolizes brutal force, while Ungyō, depicted with a closed mouth, represents contained force" © Wikipedia

The Daibutsu-den temple. Most people present come here for it, and especially for what its roof protects... Its construction began in 752.

The period bronze lantern (or "tōrō") decorated on the sides with Buddhas represented at the gate of Enlightenment.

Many neatly arranged yellow caps await their turn to reach the temple's treasure.

In front of the doors, the scents of incense lit by the faithful will perfume your entry into the temple.

Here we are inside the immense hall that houses the object of all attention: the bronze statue of the "Daibutsu" (literally "Great Buddha" in Japanese) which dominates us from its height of 14.73 meters and its 473 tons! It is the largest in the world in this representation, that is to say in "Vairocana", the "Great Sun" Buddha, teaching after his enlightenment. The statue dates from the 17th century. Nevertheless, the original, of which practically only the pedestal on which the Buddha is seated remains, dates from the 8th century, just like the building.

The palm of his right hand presented thus facing the entering visitors, is the gesture of fearlessness.

To house the bronze giant, a building of its measure was needed. This was done, the temple is the largest wooden construction in the world! Alas, it too perished several times in flames, the last reconstruction dates from 1709.

The back of the "throne" against which the great Buddha leans.

To the left of the great Buddha, a smaller, golden one. A second one is also placed on the other side. These are "Bosatsu", "almost Buddhas" who are at the gates of Nirvana but choose not to enter to help others do so.

Further back, the Celestial King Kōmoku-ten, is the King "who sees everything". There are four of them, two of whom are represented here, guardians of the horizons and therefore logically of the four cardinal points. Kōmoku-ten guards the West.

Here is the Celestial King Bishamon-ten, the one who "hears everything", guardian of the Northern horizon. Both statues also date from the 8th century.

Little fun of the place, this pierced pillar which will ensure you according to the belief "the Awakening" reached by the Buddha. For this, you will simply have to squeeze entirely through it. Obviously, only very young children have the expected size for said passage...  

We have completed the tour and arrive at the second Buddha/Bosatsu placed to the left of the Great Buddha.

Details of one of the temple gates.

The attendant responsible for replenishing the incense sticks conscientiously carries out his task.

The journey continues, leaving the temple towards the East.

The 13th-century Todaiji Shoro bell tower houses a suspended bell or "bonshō".

The bonshō is rung using a large suspended cylindrical beam.

View from underneath the bonshō.

We arrive at Nigatsu-dō temple at the foot of Mount Wakakusa.

The temple was founded in 752. Fires once again did not spare the building, which was last rebuilt in 1669.

The panorama from the temple's balcony.

The usual gong or "suzu" and its rope to make it chime up to the ears of the deities honored in the temple.

Paintings adorn the wooden walls, which one imagines to be as old as the building.

In the nearby wood, small steles with mysterious offerings...  

A little further on, a small ceremony in traditional costume is organized around the youngest.

Autumn makes sure not to be forgotten thanks to the Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) scattered everywhere on the site.

A hill welcomes Sika deer and tourists, both eager for some rest or some grass to graze...

We approach the "Kasuga-taisha" lantern temple. Here is a whole alignment of stone ones. In Japan, bronze or stone lanterns, suspended or not, are called "tōrō".

A miko hurries across the gravel... "Miko are, in Japan, young women serving a Shinto shrine. They assist Shinto priests in their daily clerical tasks and welcome visitors to the holy sites." © Wikipedia

After those placed on a stone base, here is a sample of the famous suspended lanterns.

At the foot of the temple, an enormous Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) encircled by a sacred rope "shimenawa".

"The shimenawa is a sacred rope used in Japan, made of rice straw twists of varying thickness depending on the use, and braided from left to right. [...] When it surrounds a rock or a tree, the shimenawa shows that it is a territory of the kami's domain and therefore that any type of pollution must be excluded from it. Nusa, a type of gohei (twisted white paper strips), or rice ears are often hung on it." © Wikipedia

And still more lanterns.

In a small room plunged into darkness, lit lanterns multiply by hundreds with the help of a mirror play...

A chōzubachi fountain and its hishaku ladles watched over by an imperturbable Sika deer...  

Detail of a "suzu", a gong at the entrance of prayer places.

Phew, it took us a good morning (it's already 3 PM...) to visit ancient Nara! It's time to find something to eat!

And we find our happiness in front of this small fast-food restaurant specializing in takoyakis. We had seen it still alive in the port of Utoro on Hokkaido island, now we see it cut into very small pieces... The poor octopus is a very popular dish among Japanese, especially in this delicious form, easy to eat since the piece of tentacle is placed in a kind of pancake batter.

The dumplings cook on these semi-spherical molds, and with the skillful handling of her chopsticks, the cook forms the spherical dish as she goes.

Result: meh, as far as I'm concerned. Not much taste and obviously rubbery... But maybe the preparation wasn't up to our expectations...  

Return to Osaka by train and subway after scrupulously respecting the marked positions on the ground: red arrows for positioning in single file on each side of the doors, blue arrows for travelers leaving the car.   Parisian metro, if you're watching us, big thoughts for you...  

The evening ends in the Dotonbori district, Osaka's lively spot. Here, shops and restaurants mingle, competing with the extravagance of their storefronts...

Here, there are no flat facades... No. Every self-respecting logo or sign must be in relief. The immense 3rd dimension must literally and figuratively catch the eye of the passerby...    

Here, as elsewhere in big cities, it's hard to find your way around; restaurant signs intertwine on building facades. And for good reason, a building can house several restaurants, one directly on the street, another on the 2nd basement level, and yet another on the 4th and 5th floors. Sometimes you have to take a chance and go up or down stairs; a pleasant surprise can sometimes be at the end.  

Shellfish, yakitoris, takoyakis, sushi, makis, fish, burgers, pizzas, ice creams, pastries... Everything is there to satisfy any of your desires...

The district is crossed by the Dotonbori River, from which it takes its name.

Shinsaibashi shopping arcade is packed with people... It's Friday, is that an explanation for so many people?   In any case, I'll observe this from afar and content myself with just a few photos...

Tomorrow, we leave Osaka to start our next 15 days of road trip with the rental vehicle that we will pick up tomorrow morning. First stage of our circuit, Okunoin located about a hundred kilometers further south.