Japan 2019

Wednesday13November

We leave our "self check-in" hotel for one of Japan's most popular destinations: Miyajima Island, located 30 minutes away by road.

Here we are on the ferry. We leave the city of Hatsukaichi (below in the photos) and cross the small arm of the sea in Hiroshima Bay to reach the "sanctuary" island called Miyajima, its real name being Itsukushima. But if this island is so visited, it is mainly for its shrine and its photogenic large vermilion "floating" Torii, one of Japan's iconic images!

We approach and scan the edges of the island in search of the great Shinto gate... But nothing on the horizon despite its bright orange color... Strange nonetheless...   And we begin to understand when a large building surrounded by scaffolding and completely covered appears above the water... Oh yes, the Torii is under renovation!  

The work started 5 months ago and was supposed to finish for the Tokyo Olympics. With the coronavirus having passed through, the deadlines have necessarily been extended... Through the tarpaulins, we can vaguely make out the silhouette of the Torii...  

The 5-story pagoda can also be seen from afar, and fortunately, it's not under renovation! Let's not forget that the entire island is a sanctuary. "Itsukushima Island is considered, in the Shinto religion, a sacred island. There is thus neither maternity nor cemetery on the island, because its status prohibits one from being born or dying there. In the same way, it is forbidden to cut down trees. The island is therefore covered with a relatively lush forest." © Wikipedia

We are greeted by the statue of Taira no Kiyomori, a high-ranking 12th-century leader who contributed financially to the prosperity of the sanctuary.

Just like in Nara city, the deer (Sika deer, Cervus nippon) are free to roam wherever they please on the island.

Entry to the sanctuary is through a Torii that is firmly on the ground...  

Who says Sanctuary, obviously says ceremonial Kimono.

Here again is our famous Torii from a little closer and on the sunny side, we can vaguely make out its orange colors...

The sanctuary has the only floating Nô theater stage in Japan.

"Nô or noh theater (能, nō?) is one of the traditional styles of Japanese theater stemming from a religious and aristocratic conception of life. Nô combines verse chronicles with danced pantomimes. Adorned with sumptuous costumes and specific masks (there are 138 different masks), the actors perform mainly for shoguns and samurai." © Wikipedia

The 5-story pagoda (Gojunoto) was erected in 1417 and measures 27 meters.

The island is not just about its Torii and temples. A small hiking trail crosses Momojodani Park to reach a cable car leading to the summit of Mount Misen.

Momojodani Park is charming. The autumn colors of the maple trees and the small red bridge contribute greatly to its appeal.  

The island is one of the most renowned places for its autumn colors.

A small pond is home to Koi carp (Cyprinus carpio carpio).

Here we are in one of the cabins that will take us to the top of Mount Misen.

This small mountain dominates the Seto Inland Sea by 535 meters.

The cable car's arrival.

Oyster farms line the small islands.

We are not yet at the summit, whose observation platform can be seen.

Mount Misen is sacred. It is here that the monk Kobo Daishi, whose burial we visited in Okunoin cemetery, came to train to put into practice the foundations of the future Shingon branch of Buddhism. Upon reaching the summit, Jizo statuettes announce the imminent presence of temples...

While Jizo are usually simply dressed in red hats and bibs, here they have swag and wear sunglasses and other head coverings...  

Here we are at the sanctuary, gathering a few pavilions.

The Reikado temple. Inside, one of the island's legends resides: the Kiezu-no-hi flame (the eternal fire) which is said to have been maintained since its first (and only) lighting in the year 806 by Kōbō-Daishi himself...

The eternal flame Kiezu-no-hi (at least its embers...  ) heats a pot from which it is possible to drink the water...

The faithful come to place incense in the pot in front of the pavilion.

The main pavilion Misen Hondo is located directly opposite the Reikado.

The Tsurigane bell cast on the island in the year 1177.

A Jizo lifting weights ???

This one is either a sweeper or a guitarist...  

Here we are at the summit of Mount Jizo, adorned with an observation platform.

Under the rocks, a few more Jizo are hidden, some of whom are once again trying to go incognito...

The more classic steles are sober compared to the Jizo but do not leave passing visitors unmoved...

Back to the cable car. Another opportunity to appreciate the forest that covers the entire island.

Back to the shores of Miyajima to take the ferry. Kimonos held by the belt (Obi in Japanese) are also on their way. There are several ways to tie the Obi, here is the "O Taiko musubi" way.  

It is 2 PM! Just enough time to eat, we hit the road again directly to join our next stage located 3 hours away: the Tsuwano shrine!