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Phsar Thmey, Phnom Penh's Central Market
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Kampong Thom

Cambodia 2015

Kampong Cham


The Velkommen guesthouse in Phnom Penh where we spent the night. We leave the premises to catch the bus that will take us on a 4-hour journey to the small town of Kampong Cham.

The Velkommen Guesthouse of Phnom Penh
Phnom PenhPhnom Penh

Our bus with a local film screening. At the first stop, tire tightening. You can never be too careful...

By busAt Skun Surya Paradise Market

We are at the Skun Surya Paradise stop where you can do your shopping and eat.

At Skun Surya Paradise marketAt Skun Surya Paradise market
At Skun Surya Paradise market
At Skun Surya Paradise marketAt Skun Surya Paradise market

Could these eggs hide chick fetuses???...

At Skun Surya Paradise marketAt Skun Surya Paradise market

And some cockroaches, quails or larvae might tempt you more...

At Skun Surya Paradise MarketAt Skun Surya Paradise MarketAt Skun Surya Paradise Market

No. Rather save yourself for this delicacy, prized by some Cambodians and brave tourists. Yes, it is indeed her, the tarantula, fried fortunately, you won't have to eat it alive... How lucky...

Tarantulas at Skun Surya Paradise MarketTarantulas at Skun Surya Paradise Market

Well. To tell you the truth, none of us will be tempted...

Fried tarantulas...

Given this pyramid of freshly brought tarantulas, arachno-culinary enthusiasts are not rare...

Tarantulas at Skun Surya Paradise marketTarantulas at Skun Surya Paradise market

And off we go, back on our bus to Kampong Cham.

By bus

Kampong Cham

Kampong Cham
Kampong ChamKampong Cham
Kampong Cham

Under its arbor, a wedding reception is being prepared...

Kampong Cham

Wat Nokor Temple

A driver (and his tuk-tuk) takes us to visit the surroundings of Kampong Cham. We start with Wat Nokor temple. Our tuk-tuk is parked in the shade of the sacred banyan tree growing in front of the temple entrance.

At Wat Nokor temple

This tree, a banyan fig tree (Ficus benghalensis), is considered sacred because in India, it was under this tree that Buddha experienced "Enlightenment".

The Buddhist temple dates from the 9th century.

At Wat Nokor temple

On the right, an apsara. This statue of a dancing woman is found on or in the walls of most Khmer temples. You haven't finished seeing them in photos here!  

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

The colorful frescoes. You will also see many of them. They tell the life of Buddha and other Hindu gods and goddesses...

At Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor temple

It's not just stone here, there's also fur...  

White cat at Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

Three Buddhas are arranged around the temple.

At Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

Bas-reliefs that time has not spared.

At Wat Nokor temple

In the center of the sanctuary, a more recent pagoda.

At Wat Nokor temple

From columns to ceiling, the colors are more vibrant than each other.

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

Look! Here's our furball again...

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

Some representations of the life of Siddhartha Gautama, future Buddha.

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

On the left, Buddha in the Parinirvana posture, lying down and dying in front of his disciples. On the left, an elephant and a monkey presenting offerings to Buddha. The monkey wants to trap Buddha with a swarm of bees while the elephant is benevolent with water to quench his thirst.

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

Sandstone bricks blackened over time, typical of temples from this era.

At Wat Nokor temple

Portrait of an Apsara.

At Wat Nokor temple

The pagoda roof behind the temple walls.

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

Behind the temple, the countryside extends the edifice.

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
Panoramic

The countryside is also inside with this little pig on a spiritual stroll...

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

The holes in the bricks were used to attach gold and jewel coverings.

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

On the side, this roof shelters a reclining Buddha.

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

A reclining Buddha is most often depicted lying on his right side, one hand supporting the head, the left arm resting along the body, and the feet perfectly parallel.

At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor temple

On the other side, another small altar with its Buddha.

At Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor temple
At Wat Nokor templeAt Wat Nokor temple

Back facing the entrance under the banyan tree.

At Wat Nokor temple

Next to it, water buffaloes (Bubalus bubalis) obviously wallowing in the water...

Bubalus bubalis buffaloWater buffalo (Bubalus bubalis)
Water buffalo (Bubalus bubalis)

We resume our little expedition, not without having refilled our towing vehicle. And no gas station here, no, but "Pepsi" stations with their eponymous bottles filled with the precious liquid...  

Gas station...Pepsi station...
Gas station...

Phnom Pros, the hill of men

Here we are at the foot of the stairs leading to the summit of the hill of men or Phnom Pros. On the other side, rest assured, is the hill of women which we will visit later...

Phnom Pros, the hill of men

Before reaching the summit, we must brave one of the guardians of the place. A long-tailed macaque (Macaca fascilaris).

Crab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of men

But it's worth it, the site is surprising. You don't expect to see this monument and all its scattered adornments.

Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men

The hill of men... This one, for sure, is a male, so he has his rightful place on this hill...  

Phnom Pros, the hill of menCrab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of men

Buddhist monks live on the site.

Phnom Pros, the hill of men

Macaques have taken over the place. Just keep your distance and everything will be fine... The distance of a worthy photographic framing, of course...  

Crab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Crab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Crab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Crab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of menCrab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of menCrab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of menCrab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of menCrab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Crab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of men

The impressive blue eyelids of the crab-eating macaque.

Crab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of menCrab-eating macaque on Phnom Pros, the hill of men

Several rows of seemingly identical statues, but each piece is unique.

Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men

A Buddha surrounded by his disciples.

Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men
Panoramic

Brahma, Deity with 4 faces, and usually 4 arms but here with only 2 arms...

Phnom Pros, the hill of men

Other rows of practically identical statues.

Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men

An immense Pang Umbat Buddha with his alms bowl.

Phnom Pros, the hill of men

Even more disproportionate, this reclining Buddha, known as Buddha Pang Sai Yat. Compare the sweeper to estimate the scale...

Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men

Other edifices complete the ensemble, notably this stupa which houses human remains, remnants of the last civil war...

Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of men
Phnom Pros, the hill of menPhnom Pros, the hill of men

A fresco representing the two hills. As the painting suggests, the hill of women is higher than that of men... Legend has it that women challenged men to build the highest hill during the night before the first morning star. To ensure victory, they raised a lantern at the top of the hill to feign the morning star. Seeing this, the men went to bed, letting the women finish their hill and win the challenge...  

Phnom Pros, the hill of men

Phnom Srei, the hill of women

So we will have many more steps to climb to reach the summit of this hill of women!

After an offering to a female monk, the international selfie is a must!  

Phnom Srei, the hill of womenPhnom Srei, the hill of women

Panoramic view of the summit, much more sober than that of the men.

Phnom Srei, the hill of women

Just opposite, the temple of the hill of men.

Phnom Srei, the hill of women
Phnom Srei, the hill of womenPhnom Srei, the hill of women
Crab-eating macaque at Phnom Srei, the hill of women

This long-tailed macaque (Macaca fascilaris) is kind enough to let me take its portrait!

Crab-eating macaque at Phnom Srei, the hill of women

Here, the tour is quickly done. Apart from the small altar dedicated to Buddha and its frescoes, it's mainly the panorama that's worth it.

Phnom Srei, the hill of women
Phnom Srei, the hill of womenPhnom Srei, the hill of women

The French lighthouse

We return to the city via the bridge spanning the Mekong. On the right, you can't miss the "French lighthouse", a remnant from the French protectorate era.

Kampong ChamFrench Lighthouse of Kampong Cham

Completely abandoned, it is possible to climb to the last balcony using the interior ladders...

French Lighthouse of Kampong Cham

Not for the faint of heart! Even without vertigo, the climb is impressive!  

French Lighthouse of Kampong Cham
French Lighthouse of Kampong Cham
French Lighthouse of Kampong ChamIn the French Lighthouse of Kampong Cham

The view of the Mekong from the last balcony of the French lighthouse.

Kampong ChamKampong Cham

Back in the streets of Kampong Cham. The French architecture from the colonial era.

Kampong Cham

But how to get the car out of the living room??? No problem... The counter is on wheels...  

Kampong Cham
Kampong ChamKampong Cham

Newly built building on Pasteur Street.

Kampong ChamKampong Cham

The brick red of the French lighthouse between sky and Mekong...

Kampong ChamKampong Cham
Kampong Cham

It's not a pagoda but our hotel! Hotel 7 Makara.

Makara Hotel of Kampong Cham

And tonight, we're not going out but fully enjoying the restaurant with its tables placed outside... It's Saturday, and tonight it's Karaoke!... A national sport but not for us, fortunately no one will force our hand... Our neighbors love it too much to lend us the microphone! wink.gif

Makara Hotel in Kampong Cham

Makara Hotel in Kampong Cham
Karaoke at Makara Hotel in Kampong ChamOur table neighbor at Makara Hotel in Kampong Cham

Our meal, a fried loc lac! And our hotel room.

Makara Hotel in Kampong ChamMakara Hotel in Kampong Cham

After a good night's sleep, we'll take the bus to reach the next stop, the city of Kampong Thom!






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Phsar Thmey, Phnom Penh's Central Market
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Kampong Thom