Argentina 2009

Friday13November

We leave El Calafate for the day. Objective: the PERITO MORENO glacier!

A small stop to take a picture of Lake Argentino

We will be at the glacier well before you little caterpillar!

And here we are 70 km further facing the glacier

Beforehand, we are going to picnic on the other side where we saw on the north side of the glacier

Zoom in to see the small boat we will take later to reach the other bank

Beforehand, we are going to picnic on the other side where we saw the north slope of the glacier
(the sunny side of the glacier, because let's not forget, we are in the southern hemisphere, and the Sun is to the north!)

"With a surface area of 250 km2 and a length of 30 km, it is one of the 48 glaciers fed by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, in the Andes Mountains, which Argentina shares with Chile. This ice field is the third largest reserve of fresh water in the world." © Wikipedia

Here, the pieces that have detached from the glacier. While the ice piles up at the top, the glacier slides scraping the mountain and ends its course in Lago Argentino where ice walls collapse.

1 pm. We leave for the mini-trek on the glacier
The boat approaches facing the glacier, it's the opportunity to get an eyeful! It's magnificent!

These ephemeral ice sculptures will no longer exist in a few days. But others will come to replace them.

We dock on the south bank. Below, the GPS recordings of our movements during the trek.

"The Perito Moreno glacier was named after the explorer Francisco Moreno, who studied this region in the 19th century and played a major role in the defense of Argentine territory, in discussions for the determination of the border with Chile." © Wikipedia

Short studious break with the guide before starting the small walk on the glacier

And there huge stroke of luck!
Before our astonished eyes, a huge piece of the glacier collapses in front of us!
Eric was able to take this little video. Admire and turn up the sound!

The sky is brilliant and the sunlight colors the ice blue (the frozen water traps other colors and lets blue escape). It's magnificent!

Small pose for posterity!

Come on hop, give me back my camera! we have a glacier to climb!

The guides put these steel crampons under our shoes.
With that we will be able to dance a tango on the Perito! Well almost...  

Everyone in single file! And we don't stray from the path!

The guide is protected to the maximum from the Sun but keeps the great class!

We pass from time to time next to large water holes, this bluish transparency is superb!
We wonder what secret world hides behind this deep passage...  

Photo session with the ice axe loaned for the occasion...

You are not dreaming! The guide is indeed 2 cm from this void filled with water!!! Luc Besson will be able to shoot the sequel to the big blue...

1h15 later, this little whisky is offered to us with as ice cube, pieces of the Perito Moreno itself!

But enough talk. Let the photos speak!

Here we are back from the north side, and it's just as beautiful!

There, the day ends! We must return to the house of El Calafate for the rest of our adventures!

Back at the apartment, we hear through the windows like a party in the distance. We turn on the TV and oh surprise, the man we hear outside is live on TV!
The hostel manager confirms that there is indeed a party at the local stadium. It's perfect, that will make our evening!

It is the "2nd night festival of doma and Argentine folklore". Doma is part of the "gaucho" tradition. It is about taming and breaking a wild horse without scaring it, kind of Argentine rodeo.

And I let you listen to this man we heard in the distance! He is on stage and he sings/speaks endlessly, he is inexhaustible. In fact, he is a "payador"!
"Payador: kind of singer, accompanied by a guitar, who improvises on any subject. When two "payadores" met, they did duels of "payadas" whose duration depended on the talent of the interpreters." © Wikipedia

And here are some photos of the evening

Riders take real risks.
But as soon as the gaucho falls (in a few seconds), he lets the horse go back to its enclosure (at the same time, he leaves without asking his opinion!);

Tomorrow will be calm. We will spend it by car to reach the town of El Chaltén. And the day after tomorrow, we will do a day of hiking towards Mount Fitz Roy!