Namibia 2014

Wednesday8thOctober

After 2 days in Swakopmund, we hit the road again to reach the Brandberg massifs. But we'll make a small detour via Cape Cross, not to miss the fur seal colony, renowned as the largest on the planet. In the meantime, we're careful at the wheel because ice   the particular road surface that whitens the road makes the asphalt slippery, especially in the morning...

This improbable little hamlet, which seems to be an ephemeral construction site barracks, is actually a holiday village!

Here we are at Cape Cross, a very isolated place on the Atlantic coast (called in this section, "Skeleton Coast") and home to the largest colony of fur seals (Arctocephalus pusillus) in the world... At its peak, in December, during the breeding season, up to 100,000 individuals can be counted!

All these little creatures seem to coexist with the greatest courtesy and each one basks in its corner with its loved ones...

Some take up more space than others...  

They are kind enough to leave a little space for a ruddy turnstone (Arenaria interpres)...

Otaria in Greek means "small ear"! This is partly what differentiates it from seals, which do not have external ears.

Another difference with the seal, the fur seal has large flippers that allow it to swim better and especially to move better on land.

And the most surprising thing is still its cry, which really resembles that of a sheep!  

I got a little ahead of myself when I said they were very courteous with each other... Like any self-respecting tourist on a beach, they fight hard to keep their piece of territory...  

Bloodbath after an overly muscular fight???

A small wooden walkway runs along the beach, with the seals free to approach us.

A slight feeling of oppression?  

And while mom relaxes, baby nurses...

The place is also known as the passage point of the navigator Diogo Cão. On April 8, 1484, after exploring the African coasts, he reached this point where he planted a stone pillar in the shape of a cross, proof of conquest for the kingdom of Portugal. The cross is no longer visible but has been replaced by others, more modern.

"6685 years have passed since the creation of the world and 1485 since the birth of Christ, the brilliant and far-sighted King John II of Portugal ordered Diogo Cão, knight of his Court, to discover this land and erect this padrão here." (a padrão is a stone pillar surmounted by a cross)

Well, the detour was really worth it. We can now get back on the road to reach the Brandberg massifs.