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The Thar Desert

India 2012

Deshnok and the Rat Temple

After the meal, P.K. takes us towards the rat temple not far from Bikaner. But first, we will stop at the royal cenotaphs and the camel farm.

PiKey our driver

Oh yes, the steering wheel is on the right, a legacy of the former British colony!

The Royal Cenotaphs of Bikaner

Before entering the cenotaph, you must remove your shoes. Here, slippers are even available, which highlight Christophe's magnificent orange ankle socks  

Christophe's orange ankle socksThe cenotaphs of Bikaner

These cenotaphs or chhatri are dedicated to the different princes of the Bikaji dynasty.

The cenotaphs of BikanerThe cenotaphs of Bikaner

"Chhatris are pavilion-shaped or square kiosk-shaped structures in Indian architecture. They are symbols of pride, honor, and commemoration in Rajput architecture in Rajasthan"
© Wikipedia

The cenotaphs of Bikaner

These two children are looking for rupees, and one way to get them is to offer to be your guide. Whether you listen to them or not, by the way...  

The cenotaphs of Bikaner
The cenotaphs of BikanerThe cenotaphs of BikanerThe cenotaphs of Bikaner

For the children's cenotaphs, feet are represented

The cenotaphs of BikanerThe cenotaphs of BikanerThe cenotaphs of Bikaner

A secret door! And behind it, a Bollywood film shoot is taking place!

The cenotaphs of BikanerFilming in BikanerFilm shooting in Bikaner
The cenotaphs of Bikaner
The cenotaphs of BikanerThe cenotaphs of Bikaner

The camel farm

A little further on, we reach the camel farm. It's a research center for camelids.

BikanerBikaner
The camel farm
The camel farmThe camel farm

Dromedary foot and knee

The camel farmCamel's knee...

Nearly 300 animals are present here

The camel farmThe camel farm
The camel farm
The camel farm
The camel farm
The dromedary farm
The dromedary farm

Birds accompany the dromedaries. These are Indian crows or house crows (Corvus splendens).

The dromedary farmHouse Crow (Corvus splendens)

The infirmary area.

The dromedary farmDromedary fur
The camel farm

The crows are taking care of their toilet...

The camel farmScavenger crow at the camel farm...The camel farm
The camel farm

A palm squirrel (funambulus pennantii), we'll encounter them everywhere during our various visits to Rajasthan. They are charming and never far from a nut to nibble on, much to the delight of photographers!  

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Bikaner
Bikaner

The Karni Mata rat temple in Deshnok

Here we are finally facing Shri Karni Mata, the temple of sacred rats. We don't really know what to expect, except that we might come across rats... if we look closely or if it's the right mealtime...  

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in DeshnokThe Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok

Once our shoes are removed and we've passed through the door, we can start looking for the little rats' hiding places...

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in DeshnokThe Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok

And then, surprise, we won't have to look for them... They are everywhere!!!  

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in DeshnokThe Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok

From the courtyard, we can access a room where the altar itself is located, where offerings (flowers, food...) can be made.

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok

In this room, the rats are given a large bowl of milk.

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in DeshnokThe Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
The Karni Mata Rat Temple in DeshnokThe Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok

The heart of the sanctuary (Garbha griha) where offerings to the deities take place

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok

This temple is dedicated to Karni Mata, a Hindu woman born in 1387 and who died 151 years later (???). Considered an incarnation of the Goddess Durga, several temples were dedicated to her in the region. This one was built after her disappearance.

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in DeshnokThe Karni Mata rat temple in Deshnok

So why sacred rats in this temple? Legend has it that Karni Mata asked the God Yama to reincarnate the dead son of one of her poet friends. He did so, not only for the poet's son, but also for all the children of the other storytellers. As you can guess, they were all reincarnated as rats, hence the devotion of the faithful towards them. (© Wikipedia)

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in DeshnokThe rats of Karni Mata temple in Deshnok

The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
The Karni Mata rat temple in DeshnokThe Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
Rat in Karni Mata temple in Deshnok

Marigolds as an offering

The Karni Mata rat temple in DeshnokThe Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok
The Karni Mata Rat Temple in Deshnok

We leave the temple after carefully depositing our socks, contaminated by all the little droppings of the small mice, in the bin...  

The Rat Temple

By rickshaw in the streets of Bikaner

And off we go for a little rickshaw ride in Bikaner. And yes, there are three of us behind the driver!

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BikanerBikanerBikaner
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Bikaner
BikanerBikaner

These small green and yellow (or black and yellow) taxis are the most common in India. They take you on their three wheels to the sputtering sound of the 2-stroke engine.  

A small glimpse of our ride with an onboard camera

Havelis with meticulously carved red sandstone facades

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Bikaner
Bikaner
Ring on door in Bikaner
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We are urged to visit the interior of this luxury hotel. Indeed, it's not everyone's decor...  

Bikaner
BikanerBikaner

Return at nightfall. Tomorrow, we'll leave the rickshaw for a camel to confront the sand of the Thar Desert!

Bikaner





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