Chile 2016

Friday4November

After 5 hours by bus and 330 kilometers, we arrive at precisely 7:30 PM here... In the middle of the highway, at a toll booth... silly.gif

Oh yes, in Chile the bus stops anywhere, whether you want to get off or on... In any case for Puerto Varas, this is where they drop us off!

So it's on foot and with our luggage that we leave the highway to cover the last 2 kilometers separating us from our new destination: the small town of Puerto Varas.

After finding a small room in "Hospedaje Sureño" run by a kind little grandmother, we head out to eat in the center of Puerto Varas.

Saturday5November

A short stroll in Puerto Varas, a city of about 40,000 inhabitants, on the shore of the large Lake Llanquihue (2nd largest in the country by area).

In the distance, on the other side of Lake Llanquihue, Osorno volcano plays shy, hiding its all-white summit above the cloud ceiling...

It's 10:30 in the morning, but some are already taking their afternoon nap... chuckle.gif

The curious Pablo Fierro museum which seems straight out of a Tim Burton movie... But closed...

The building, inaugurated in 1915, is a testament to the German colonial era of the mid-19th century in the region. Its architectural style is typical of Bavaria.

And today, the place was lively because it was the children's communion day.

The traditional "doll-statues" of South American churches.

The crucifix in the church choir.

At the foot of the church square, a "mini" Lourdes inspired by the French grotto...

Lunch break amidst the food trucks in the city center.

The cloud cover deigning to withdraw, we postpone our navigation on Lake Todos los Santos until tomorrow. For today, we take the bus to reach the small town of Frutillar located 30 kilometers north on the shore of Lake Llanquihue.

The "Muelle", a pier facing Lake Llanquihue.

In the line of sight from the Muelle, Osorno volcano. At least, when the sky is clear, obviously... sorry.gif

To the left, the Muelle. To the right, the Teatro del Lago (the "Lake Theater").

Classical music, opera, dance, this performance hall is one of the largest in Chile.

The building was inaugurated in 2010 (12 years of work and 20 million dollars to achieve it).

"The building's facade recalls that of the shingle-clad warehouses built by German immigrants, typical of the region. Wooden slats of different colors were used to modernly evoke the aging of these hangars." © Wikipedia

Opposite the opera, the Lutheran church of Frutillar.

Meanwhile, the upper part of the town is bustling. Rodeos are organized in the Frutillar arena. Outside the arena, "huasos" get acquainted with their horses. Huaso is the name of these cowboys, also called "gaucho" in Argentina.

The arena is far from full because for now, the huasos are only training.

The rodeo consists of 2 riders immobilizing a cow at the edge of the arena.

The traditional huaso attire is the flat-brimmed hat (the chupalla) and a type of short poncho (the manta).

Return to Puerto Varas in our "Sureño" guesthouse.

Sunday6November

That's it! The volcano has finally pierced the cloud layer! This bodes well for a good day, which is fortunate because it will be entirely dedicated to the volcano and especially to Lake Todos los Santos, on which we will navigate.

Zoom on the volcano from Puerto Varas.

We take the bus to reach the lake. The road passes through an obligatory stop, the Petrohue River waterfalls ("los Saltos del rio Petrohue"). The place bears witness to the region's chaotic past. The river here flows through or over the basaltic magma spread by the Osorno volcano.

In the background, the volcano plays hide-and-seek with the clouds, briefly revealing its crater. One can even distinguish the red scars of the volcano and behind them the cables carrying the chairlifts... Oh yes, this volcano also has its ski slopes!

The turquoise water of the Petrohue torrent.

Osorno persists in wanting to remain hidden...

Ah, there it is! A window opens! The magnificent white cone reveals itself a little!

Alright, one last photo. We have to get back on the bus to reach the lake where a boat is waiting for us.

So here we are on the boat, crossing this lake which received its name (Todos los Santos) from the day it was discovered, November 1st, All Saints' Day... Two hours of navigation to reach the small port of Peulla located at the eastern end of the lake. The setting is superb, but the star of the day will undoubtedly be the majestic Osorno, which finally slowly but surely chases away all the clouds around it...

From its height of 2,661 meters, the crater is covered in snow all year round. Still active, its last eruption dates back to 1869.

The lake is surrounded by hills and mountains covered with forests.

Osorno is not the only volcano dominating the lake; it is also seconded by the Puntiagudo volcano, whose crater is much sharper, shaped by glaciers over millennia. It culminates at an altitude of 2,493 meters, 168 meters less than its elder...

A few chalets isolated from the world between volcanoes and lake...

The pretty "Yefe" waterfall flows into the emerald water of the lake (which also gives the lake its Amerindian name: Esmeralda).

Flowering trees sprinkle red over the green background that surrounds us...  

Here we are at the easternmost point of the lake in the small village of Peulla. For us, there's not much to do here, apart from picnicking and simply enjoying the setting!

We are right in the middle of the Andes Mountains. On one side, Chile, on the other, Argentina! And 25 kilometers across the border, the sign indicates the city of San Carlos de Bariloche! Great! We were there 7 years ago!  

A giant rhubarb (Gunnera manicata).

And daisies... quite normal...

It's spring, and the lichen will surely give way to nascent leaves.

He is very happy to have his little tourists who come every day to entertain him...

It is possible to stay here in this hotel.

If you decide to cross the border into Argentina, you must register here at the civil registry. For us, it's back to the port to take the boat again.

And now Osorno is regal, the clouds have practically disappeared.

The fire of the volcano facing the fire star...  

Puntiagudo is also almost completely uncovered.

And here in the same photo, Osorno and Puntiagudo. 24 kilometers separate the 2 craters.

Small villa on Margarita Island in the middle of the Lake.

Back in Puerto Varas where the sky is still clear. Now, boats on Lake Llanquihue and the red of the setting sun are added to the scene.

As a large cross lights up on the hill, night falls on Puerto Varas and Lake Llanquihue.

Monday7thNovember

Transition day. We leave the region to reach the southern tip of the continent above the Strait of Magellan. So we take the bus to Puerto Montt, about twenty kilometers away.

The Puerto Montt bus station. From here, we take another bus to the airport where we can catch our plane to Punta Arenas, 1300 km from here...  

The tarmac of Tepual Airport in Puerto Montt with, in the background 40 km away, the Calbuco volcano, which recently erupted on April 30, 2015.